According to Measures for Administration of Cosmetic Registration and Notification, “Where the purpose of use and safe use amount of used cosmetic raw materials are adjusted, the registration and notification shall be applied for in accordance with the requirements for registration and notification of NCI. ” When using New Cosmetic Ingredients that have been notified and registered, we should pay attention to the purpose of use, safe use amount and other information in its technical requirements. (See below for details)
The management department of NCI has changed from Chinese National Health Commission to NMPA when its management policy has changed from Regulations on the Supervision of Cosmetics Hygiene (RSCH) to Cosmetic Supervision and Administration Regulation (CSAR). 20 New Cosmetic Ingredients have been registered or notified up to now.
Technical Requirements for NCI summarized by ZMUni
PART1: After the implementation of CSAR, 6 New Cosmetic Ingredients approved by NMPA
6 New Cosmetic Ingredients approved by NMPA
(1) Acetylneuraminic Acid (INCI name)
Notification number: 国妆原备字20210001
Status: in monitoring period
Purpose: moisturizer
Applicable to: Skin care for the whole body
Safe use amount: ≤2%
(2) Lauroyl Alanine (INCI name)
Notification number: 国妆原备字20210002
Status: in monitoring period
Purpose: cleaning agent
Applicable to: all categories of cosmetics without special restrictions on the scale of use
Safe use amount: ≤20%
(3) β-Alanyl Hydroxyprolyldiaminobutyroyl Benzylamide (INCI name)
Notification number: 国妆原备字20210003
Status: in monitoring period
Safe usage: 0.00001-1.0%
Purpose: skin protectant
Applicable to: ① non-leave on cosmetics: cleaning products and massage products; ②Leave on skin care products such facial toner, lotion, cream, beauty serum, facial mask, etc.③Make-up products: foundation, all kinds of primer
Safe use amount: 0.00001-1.0%
(4) Tissue Culture of Saussurea Involucrata (INCI name)
Notification number: 国妆原备字20210004
Status: in monitoring period
Purpose: anti-oxidant
Applicable to: all categories of cosmetics without special restrictions on the scale of use
Safe use amount: ≤4%
(5) Tetrafluoropropene (INCI name)
Notification number: 国妆原备字20210005
Status: in monitoring period
Purpose: propellant
Applicable to: ①Leave on: skin cosmetics and hair cosmetics; ②Rinse off: skin cosmetics and hair cosmetics.
Safe use amount: ≤90%
(6) Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (INCI name)
Notification number: 国妆原备字20210006
Status: in monitoring period
Purpose: cleaning agent
Applicable to: cleaning cosmetics such as hair wash products, body wash products and facial cleaning products
Safe use amount: ≤11%
PART2: Before the implementation of CSAR, 8 New Cosmetic Ingredients approved by NMPA
(7) POLYMETHACRYLOYL LYSINE (INCI name)
Status: in IECIC
Purpose: moisturizer and humectant
Applicable to: all categories of cosmetics without special restrictions on the scale of use
Safe use amount: ≤3%
(8) Dimethoxytolyl Propylresorcinol (INCI name)
Status: in IECIC
Purpose: topically applied skin-conditioning and skin tone-conditioning agents
Applicable to: cream, lotion, gel, mask and other skin care products
Safe use amount: ≤2%
(9) Phenylethyl Resorcinol (INCI name) (377)
Status: in IECIC
Purpose: whiten skin and inhibit the formation of melanin by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase
Applicable to: all categories of skin care products
Safe use amount: ≤0.5%
(10) ELAEAGNUS MOLLIS DIEL OIL (INCI name)
Status: in IECIC
Purpose: Skin care cosmetics matrix raw materials, emollient, moisturizer, antioxidant, anti-aging
Applicable to: excipients in skin care, moisturizing, anti-aging and sunscreen cosmetics can be used in massage oil and compound essential oil
Safe use amount: According to the current scientific knowledge, there are no other restrictions and requirements
(11) ETHYL LAUROYL ARGINATE HCL (INCI name)
Status: in IECIC, Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics
Purpose: cosmetic preservatives
Applicable to: all categories of cosmetics except lip products, oral hygiene products and spray products.
Safe use amount: ≤0.4%
(12) METHOXY PEG-23 METHACRYLATE/GLYCERYL DIISOSTEARATE METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (INCI name)
Status: in IECIC
Purpose: moisturizer and humectant
Applicable to: ① non-leave on cosmetics: cleaning products and massage products; ②Leave on skin care products such facial toner, lotion, cream, beauty serum, facial mask, etc.③Make-up products: foundation, all kinds of primer
Safe use amount: ≤2%
(13) CALCIUM PHOSPHORYL OLIGOSACCHARIDES (INCI name)
Status: in IECIC
Purpose: moisturizer
Applicable to: all categories of facial, scalp, body cosmetics except eye cosmetics
Safe use amount: ≤5%
(14) Steareth-200 (INCI name)
Status: in IECIC
Purpose: Emulsifier, solubilizer
Applicable to: hair cosmetics
Safe use amount: ≤1%( When used in oxidation hair dyes, it is used together with oxidized milk, and 1.0% is the highest concentration after mixing)
PART3: 6 New Cosmetic Ingredients approved by Chinese National Health Commission
(15) Methylisothiazolinone (INCI name)
Status: in IECIC, Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics
Purpose: preservative
Safe use amount: the maximum allowable concentration in cosmetics is 0.01%; Use as preservative only
(16) Potassium Methoxysalicylate (INCI name)
Status: in IECIC
Safe use amount: the maximum allowable concentration in cosmetics is 3%
(17) Carnitine(and)Tartaric Acid (INCI name)
Safe use amount: the maximum allowable concentration in cosmetics is 3%
(18) LATHYRUS ODORATUS FLOWER EXTRACT (INCI name)
Status: in IECIC
Safe use amount: the maximum allowable concentration in cosmetics is 1%
(19) FRUCTOOLIGOSACCHARIDES (INCI name)
Status: in IECIC
Safe use amount: the maximum allowable concentration in cosmetics is 5%
(20) ALKYL(C12-22)TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE(BROMIDE) (INCI name)
Status: in IECIC, Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics
Safe use amount: when used as non-preservative, ①in rinse off products: the use concentration is not limited. ②in non-rinse off products, the maximum concentration shall not exceed 0.25%
For further information: info@zmuni.com
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ZMUni Chinese Cosmetic Regulation Compliance Centre 中贸合规中心
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